Nine Lessons Learned While Running in Thailand:

(Most of these probably apply to running most anywhere in Southeast Asia)

I have been able to keep on my running schedule pretty much the entire time I’ve been in Thailand, prepping for a half marathon at Angkor Wat, Cambodia on December 1st. There have been a few days where getting in a run felt like a hassle (travel days in particular), but running even at my slow pace helps me feel healthy and sane, even when eating too much or feeling a bit of travel stress.

Here are lessons I’ve learned so far – perhaps they will help you if you are traveling to the region and planning to run:

1. Don’t wait. acclimate:

A run the morning after you arrive in a new country or a new city is a great way to shake off any jet-lag or creaky limbs from a long bus ride.

Even if you feel a bit foggy – don’t wait – get out there and start your stay in a new place off right. Begin to acclimate to local climate and culture and start to see the city.

2. Run early:

Start early early.

9:30?
OMG. WTF ITS ALREADY SO HOT AND IM SO THIRSTY AND … IM DEAD.

8:30?
Too late. You’re gonna die.

7:45?
Still too late. You’re probably gonna die just a little.

7:00?
Ok, that’s better. You can get in a 10K, but might start to die a bit at the end.

6:00? Maybe 6:15?
Perfect. See a bit of dawn, get some cool(er) air, hope the dogs are still fast asleep dreaming of running meat sticks.

At least here on the Gulf coast where the sun is hitting early, I’ve found I need to be done with my runs by 8:30 at the latest. With the exception of inclement weather days, or locations at higher and cooler elevations, I think that’s probably a good rule of thumb for anywhere the region.

By 8:30 the sun is already strong, and even more than the heat or humidity, a strong sun can really hamper your run. The few times I was still running at 9 or 9:30 were pretty brutal. Maybe it’s just the Seattleite in me, but while running I find the sun here is totally a demoralizing mean jerk (though remains lovely and pleasant company while sitting somewhere breezy).

I’ve seen some locals running at dusk, another option. These same rules apply but you also have to deal with dark streets on the way home as well as the allure of dinner and drinks and sleep. So I’ve been running only in the AM.

The other good reason to run early early: less traffic. Which means fewer exhaust fumes and easier street crossings.

3. Cars are wild animals:

Respect the traffic, cause the traffic probably does not respect you.

4. Deet is not your friend (but neither are the mosquitos):

After a few early runs resulted in some fresh arm, leg and ankle itches, I realized that running early is great but it’s also an active skeeter time. So I slather on some Deet containing spray, and head out to run a lap or two around Chiang Mai’s walled old city. Here’s what happened next:

+20 minutes in – a shiny burning sensation hits my arms as I’m building up a good sweat. The Deet is happily absorbing into my open pores.

+35 minutes in – my legs and arms have the weirdest “suffocating” feeling. Like they are made of tiny lungs struggling to breathe. It’s not pleasant.

+45 minutes in – I must have managed to wipe my forehead with a hand that rubbed a Deet-y arm, and now the sweat trickling into my eyes feels napalm infused. I try to blink it away and the stinging only gets worse.

I manage to finish my run, red-eyed, but it felt like an extra struggle.

Lesson-learned : Deet is scary stuff and great for heavy-duty protection in super buggy situations – WHILE WALKING. For running stick to natural or local herbal stuff. Or just speed the hell up and out-run the suckers.

5. Watch the dogs, but don’t actually watch the dogs:

Love dogs? Used to dog culture elsewhere? Unless that elsewhere is India or Central America or the like, erase most of what you know about dogs and their behavior and relationship to humans. Dogs in SouthEast Asia (like much of the world outside the US, Canada, or Europe) are often semi-feral, most especially outside of the cities (where they are more likely to be kept as pets). They subsist on scavenged food and occasional community handouts, and form tribes that roam towns or forests or beaches. If you aren’t used to it they can be fascinating to see in action – roaming and playing and hunting and dozing, and when they appear diseased or malnourished it can be a little heartbreaking too.

While running – keep an eye out for dogs ahead, especially packs of dogs. But don’t make direct eye contact (they don’t like that much), except when threatened. Generally they will bark and may seem like they are going to approach, but they aren’t actually about to bite, they are just being showy and noisy and protective of their kids or their turf. While it’s a bit tricky – try to pay them no attention at all, while keeping tabs on them casually. It’s what most of the locals do – they don’t focus on the dogs much at all. Think of them as roving trees or plants or furniture instead of cuddly cuties or ferocious monsters (or both).

Keep a special watch out for packs that may try to surround you, or even individual dogs that act extremely aggressively. They may circle back and try to come at you from behind. In 99% of those situations turning around quickly, making angry eye-contact and yelling a sharp retort causes them to scatter or at least fall-back.

In the other 1% – you may need to pretend to throw a rock or stick for them to get the message that you are not actually a large juicy steak like thing or some kind of apocalyptic threat to their homeland. I would never advocate violence against animals, but if the situation feels especially grave – you may need to actually throw something.

When feeling anxious or unsure of the dog situation you encounter, you can always stop running and walk (even though stopping to walk can be annoying when training). While it may not halt all of ’em – it does most: something about walking triggers your shift in the dogs mind from “giant yummy scary meat stick thing that I should probably go after”, back into “human being that may kick or throw something and I should probably leave alone.”

And after all that – relax. Most dogs are probably ok. Just be a bit cautious, give them space and treat them with wild-animal respect, and you’ll get your runs in without a clever new scar on your calf.

6. Stay hydrated:

This one is probably obvious, but worth mentioning:

Bring a bottle or some form of hydration on shorter runs than you are used to. Unless you’re used to a similar humid tropical climate, you’ll be sweating much more and likely need to reach for some water much sooner than back at home.

Drink plenty after your runs too. Like a lot. A good long run here will pull a ton of moisture out of you.

7. Do look at the humans. say hello:

Unlike the canines, do make eye-contact with the locals (or non-locals) you pass by. It’s a treat and will brighten your run when you share a few words or a wave and receive a smile or a greeting in return.

Especially in villages in rural parts they may not see runners often and so you might be a mild novelty. Enjoy it. Embrace being a novelty – smile big and say hello!

It’s fun to share a nod or word with local runners as well, though i’m not seeing very many in the smaller towns. But there are plenty of joggers in the larger cities.

8. Know your route (or be ok with getting a bit lost):

Especially when are still orienting to a city in the first few days, map your route ahead of time. Pick some good, obvious milestone markers. Make sure you make some mental notes about your lodging location as well, and if you are terrible with general orientation you should make sure you really know what your block looks like from several directions.

Some research via the web before your run can really pay off, it’s very likely other runners have shared routes to one of the popular running sites, or you’ll find blogs for locals or expats that talk up specific routes or good neighborhoods.

If you are finding a route on a map yourself – take the “green” spots that appear on online city maps with a grain of salt. It seems these are not always parks, they may just as often be palaces or racetracks (I’m looking at you Bangkok!) or military reserves or otherwise inaccessible spots. Look for areas with long blocks, and fewer traffic crossings.

Cached map apps that can use GPS are really super helpful if you lose your way, pinpointing your location without requiring hefty international roaming data charges. There are many – I’ve been using “CityMaps2Go” on iOS and it’s worked great. I am able to download pretty detailed maps for almost all of the cities or provinces in Thailand I will be visiting, and can grab more as needed when I’m on wifi.

Also – Bring along your guesthouse name and address in the local language as well as a bit of cash in the event you need a lift back (or just need to stop in somewhere for water or a snack).

9. Savor the experience and have fun:

Running in a foreign place is a unique and wonderful experience.

It’s something I’ve been thinking a lot about on this trip. I find it a fascinating way to see a city in a special way. I feel more present and aware when I run in general, and that’s doubly true in an unfamiliar place. It’s a joy to explore and discover new spots with only your feet and legs and lungs.

Running means you won’t probably have a bunch of crap with you – a rare time to be free of backpacks and phones and cameras and guidebooks. It’s a forced time to just experience the things around with only your senses.

And it will be a treat for those senses: It’s likely your run will be at a time of day when the light is good to keep your eyes happy and your route will deliver you to quiet areas and backstreets and different neighborhoods that are just as interesting and beautiful as the main sights, if not more so. Things are being cooked and the air is fresher so your senses of smell and taste are engaged. You hear early morning prayers and quiet conversations and washing sounds as people start their day. And you feel the place – rough cobblestones or chunky bricks or sandy gravel pass beneath you.

Have a great run. Enjoy!

Why only nine? Because I’m sure I’ll come up with at least one more before I head home.